My Quinoa Quest in Bolivia (Project Background Info)

From what I have read so far, it seems like the dynamic surrounding quinoa, a “Lost Crop of the Incas” and previously Neglected and Underutilized Species (NUS), is even more complex and controversial than I had originally thought.  It also seems to be a curious amalgamation of many issues that I’ve spent the last six months studying in Africa and Asia.  For example, the social, economic, and environmental impacts of the “quinoa boom” in the West are far-reaching and complicated.  It is important to note that quinoa, revered as the “mother grain” by the Incas, is a small cereal/grain-like food that is actually the seed of a fruit, is a complete protein (contains all 20 essential amino acids) rich in vitamins and minerals, high in fiber, and both cholesterol and gluten-free.  While western consumers’ craze with this super food (especially vegetarians and health freaks) has helped uplift previously marginalized farmers by providing them with remunerative prices for their crop, it also renders quinoa too expensive for most urban-dwelling Bolivians to afford.  This paradox raises questions of domestic food security in a country where roughly 1 in 5 children is chronically malnourished and cheap imports and processed food abound.  The lack of widespread domestic consumption is further complicated by the fact that many urban elites (“mestizos” who have mixed European blood) have historically looked down upon quinoa as a sort of dirty peasant/native food.  Unsurprisingly, however, increased prices (a threefold increase in four years) have instigated a sort of “repeasantization” (a debated term) of the countryside in which both young and old people alike are returning to their native villages to cultivate quinoa on what is often forsaken ancestral land, which is creating resource conflicts and community tension, especially surrounding indigenous governance and land management systems.   

Furthermore, the increased demand in the US and EU is encouraging farmers to expand and intensify production (while simultaneously abandoning traditional cultivation methods such as fallow fields, crop rotation, and animal husbandry of llamas – a fertilizing relationship upon which quinoa depends), which has the likely potential of eroding soils and depleting nutrients in areas that were ecologically fragile from the beginning.  The region to which I refer is the Altiplano, which means "high plain," and is the tabletop area located between two Andean mountain ranges: the western Cordillera Occidental and the eastern Cordillera Real.  According to LP, “The haunting Altiplano, which ranges in altitude from 3500m to 4000m, is bound by these two great cordilleras.  It’s an immense, nearly treeless plain punctuated by mountains and solitary volcanic peaks.”  Quinoa is a sort of miracle crop in that it flourishes in harsh environments where most other plants cannot exist: sandy soil, little rainfall, high altitude, and subfreezing temperatures.  With global climate change in mind and the expected increases in drought, desertification, and weather extremes, quinoa proves rather promising, compounded by its high nutrition in the context of prevailing global hunger.  It makes sense then why the United Nations declared 2013 “The International Year of Quinoa” (and 2014 has been dubbed “The International Year of Family Farming” – how fitting for my Watson!).  

My hopes while in Bolivia for the next three months include following the quinoa commodity chain from field to export, exploring the on-farm management practices, organic certification, post-harvest processing, marketing and sales.  I want to understand how farmers are altering their production methods because of increased demand from the West and what the social, economic, and environmental impacts of these changes are.  If possible, I hope to spend time living in quinoa producing villages learning how to grow and maintain it.  I already have two places in mind: a small village on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the center of origin of this fabled Andean crop, where they grow the sweet variety of quinoa, as well as a small village in the southwestern Altiplano in the inter-salar region (between the massive salt flats) near the Chilean border, where they are growing the bitter variety (aka quinua real or royal quinoa).  I want to compare certified organic quinoa production with traditional methods and understand how mechanization in the form of tractors, disc ploughs, harvesters, threshers, and washing units have influenced the lives of farmers, perhaps enabling them to scale up their production.  Along these lines, I am curious as to the role of both the State (which has maintained a largely neoliberal economic agenda with an emphasis on mechanization) and NGOs in the strategic planning of quinoa commercialization, as well as of farmers’ groups and producer cooperatives, which may be facilitating technical support and marketing.  I read one paper titled “Food Sovereignty and the Quinoa Boom in Bolivia,” written by Tanya Kerssen for the International Conference “Food Sovereignty: A Critical Dialogue” at Yale this past September.  Although it is only a draft paper, it raised a number of interesting points that I hope to follow up on during my research here.  I will quote one passage here:  “A number of factors, then, converged for quinoa exports to take off in the 1980s: the mechanization of production; the consolidation of producers’ associations; the personal interest and commitment of ‘values-oriented’ investors; trade liberalization; and the increased consumption of healthy, organic and exotic foods in the North” (10).  In my opinion, this coming together of a number of facets is a bit of a ‘perfect storm’ that allowed quinoa to blossom, so to speak.  However, with soaring prices, cultivated land expanding rapidly (production is up 40x what it was in 2000 and the area under cultivation has more than doubled in the last four years), and potentially unsound management practices, it begs the question of the long-term sustainability and growth of the quinoa sector, especially if it continues to be modeled after Western agro-industrial development.  In short, by the time I leave Bolivia for the next destination (which is still TBD), I want to be a quinoa expert, having spent time in the field and the warehouse working through the nuances of this Andean pseudo-cereal.  I really enjoy eating quinoa at home, but I also strive to understand the complex political economy and environmental ramifications surrounding my gastronomic preferences.  Thus, I felt compelled to come to Bolivia, which is not only one of the largest exporters of quinoa in the world (alongside Peru), but also home to the largest percentage of indigenous people in the Americas.  In fact, according to LP, “A place of mind-boggling superlatives, landlocked Bolivia really packs a punch.  The hemisphere’s highest, most isolated and most rugged nation, it’s among the earth’s coldest, warmest, and windiest spots, with some of the driest, saltiest, and swampiest natural landscapes in the world.  It’s also a land of paradoxes: South America’s poorest country, Bolivia is the richest on the continent in natural resources.”  So here I go!  Wish me luck as I dive into the next leg of my Watson journey and simultaneously attempt to navigate the figurative waters of the Bolivian Altiplano.   

Quinoa in love - photo from a community outside Oruro

Quinoa from one of the producers' communities I visited later in the month

Calm and Crazy in Coroico

I have been in the sleepy town of Coroico for only two days but I already feel much more at ease than I did in La Paz.  I’ve been doing yoga every day for the last week and although it is still the rainy season here, I’ve seen more sunshine than I have in days (in between the colossal downpours).  Moreover, I am certainly realizing my preferences and values as I progress through this year – for instance, I know now more than ever that I really don’t like metropolises as they just don’t feel like home.  In contrast, I have only been into Coroico town once so far, but its small size and chaotic streets are much less intimidating.  My host family is renting a house in here a few kilometers outside the main town, so it’s quite a nice treat to be able to go on a few day escape with them.  According to the 2010 version of Lonely Planet Bolivia, Coroico is a small town of only 2,360 but a popular vacation destination for both tourists and native Bolivians: “Coroico is derived from the Quechua word coryguayco meaning ‘golden hill.’  The town’s biggest attraction is its slow pace, which allows plenty of time for swimming, sunbathing, and hammock-swinging.”  It is located in the Yungas – “the transition zone between dry highlands and humid lowlands, where the Andes fall away into the Amazon Basin.”  We were able to go to las cascadas yesterday (waterfalls) and I was even able to take a half-clothed dip in one of the natural pools, which was quite cold but deliciously refreshing.  I usually can’t pass up an opportunity to swim and come to think of it, it’s only the second time I’ve been able to swim in the last half year, the other being a snorkel trip into the Indian Ocean off the coast of Tanzania.  I am also helping my host mother dig up a plot in the backyard in preparation for planting a vegetable garden and together with her ten-year-old son, we built a compost pile with the weeds we pulled up, kitchen scraps, dried banana leaves and chicken manure. I must say, it felt nice to get my hands dirty again, though this climate is much more welcoming to insects, large and small.  Moreover, I was excited and happy to be able to teach other people, including her son and husband, about compost and the benefits of recycling organic wastes and nutrients.    

I am continuing to take Spanish lessons with the señor of the family, which has provided an excellent chance for me to review everything I’ve forgotten, though the rather unstructured nature of the classes and relative disorganization makes me a little crazy – as anyone who knows me is aware that I am a fan of order.  Moreover, I find myself frustrated when I can’t understand someone in a normal conversation because they aren’t speaking at a snail’s pace or when I can’t form the words to adequately respond.  I know that it will take time and full immersion, but in the interim, it has been quite discouraging.  Moreover, I have had very few genuinely poor experiences this year and generally have really liked everyone I’ve crossed paths with, but unfortunately, sometimes you just don’t click with people and regrettably, this seems to have happened.  I am taking 30 hours of Spanish classes with "ABC Spanish Tuition" in Bolivia’s capital city of La Paz and simultaneously living with the teacher, William, and his family in the quiet neighborhood of Miraflores.  Of course, I have always known that I don’t like small children, but it has been particularly difficult to have class inside the home and try to get any kind of research-related work done when their children (ages 3 and 10 with another 5 year old family member) seem to always been running around, making noise, crying or fighting (and subsequently needing to be scolded).  It’s difficult to concentrate and peace and quiet is nearly impossible to come by.  I guess it started the first night when I tried to call the teacher to meet me at the bus stand when I was nervous about arriving in La Paz after dark.  When he didn’t pick up his phone and I had to send an SMS, leave a voicemail, and send an email, I should have suspected that perhaps this wouldn’t be the best living arrangement, as I ended up spending the first night in an overpriced hotel.  And two weeks later, it really hasn’t gotten any better.  The classes take place in the guy's dining room, which is fine except when the kids are running around screaming and interrupting. But in general, it's all pretty unprofessional.  The classes are disorganized, and I couldn't even read some of the handouts he gave me because they were so poorly photocopied and came in a jumbled, unstapled mess. Part of it may be that I am taking individualized classes, which means there is no one else to act as a buffer. For a few days, I joined a young Irish guy who was also taking classes, which was more tolerable and even fun. Aside from the classes, I wish I hadn't elected to live with the teacher's family because it's "too much teacher time." And in Coroico where the family is renting a house, I found a mouse running around my room and even in my backpack, and I couldn’t sleep a wink last night because of a leak in the roof which translated to a deluge in my bed.  Furthermore, other people have told me that I am being overcharged when considering what I am paying for classes, room, and only partial board and I hate quibbling over money and meals, which has happened on multiple occasions over the last two weeks.  He even said, “and I could be charging you for tea”, which I had three cups of in two weeks and when I accidently broke a light bulb, instead of asking if I had cut myself with the broken glass, he responded, “that’s 20 Bolivianos!” and proceeded to ask me again the next day to pay for it.  He owed me $6 change at one point and when I asked for it, he said, “but you ate dinner here yesterday.”  Yes, I did, but your wife cooked dinner for the entire family with the $5 bag of quinoa that I had bought at the supermarket without asking.  Are you kidding me?  As you can imagine, it is awkward and uncomfortable, but unfortunately, I really have to stick to a tight budget and make the Watson stipend last the next five months so I don’t totally run out of money when I finally reach Iceland.  Also – that awkward moment I was giving his three-year-old kid dirty looks when his father was trying to spoon feed him lunch and he kept crying, then the dad goes: "do you know how to say staring in Spanish?"  Mirar fijamente (fixed look), then he said, "for example, por que me estas mirando fijamente?"   Haha, talk about tense and awkward, but seriously, this is one of the worst behaved, bratty, whiney kids I’ve ever met.  In short, it has been extremely difficult to transition from Bhutan and India where people were so generous with their time, skills, money, homes, food etc. (India has a saying: “guest is God” and you can’t enter any house without being offered copious amounts of tea and snacks) to Bolivia where everything seems to be about making a buck.  In some ways, it seriously perplexes me since some of the people (e.g. farmers) with whom I was interacting in India were so poor, yet simultaneously generous.  Regardless, I am trying to keep my head up here, even though this has been one of this year’s toughest transitions: from countries where people took care of me like family to South America where I honestly feel quite alone.  In fact, I miss my family and friends more than ever now and hate to feel like I am counting the days until I go home (or at least until I move onto the next homestay).  Fortunately, at the same time, when I read background information on my project to prepare me for my hopeful work in quinoa production, I once again become excited and enlivened.            

Water fall coming from the clouds ;)

With homestay brothers in Coroico

Building a compost pile with my homesty mom

Sunset over banana trees

Before weeding the backyard in preparation for the garden

After weeding :)

Tiring work but very rewarding

Constructing our compost pile

Our hot compost pile :)

Pre-swimming at the waterfalls

Swimming :D

Homestay family and Spanish teacher

Looks like Monteverde, Costa Rica

Coroico 

Lots of banana trees!

Bolivia is now the Plurinational State of Bolivia

New Year's in La Paz, Bolivia

New Year’s Resolutions in La Paz

I suppose it is fitting that I am ringing in the New Year in a city whose name translates to “The Peace.”  I really hope that for my family, friends, and self, 2014 is a year of both peace and prosperity, though the latter is a rather ambiguous term that I would prefer to associate with happiness and contentment instead of the traditional materialistic meaning.  I have transitioned to La Paz, Bolivia from Bhutan after an exhausting 5 days of traveling.  I still feel jetlagged, tired, and of course, altitude sick, coming from Lima, Peru, which is basically at sea level.  I’ve moved in with a family and am taking Spanish classes with the father for two weeks.  So far, it’s been a less than appealing situation.  I’ve been quibbling with him over money, feeling that he is way overcharging me for lessons, room, and partial board.  I miss India and Bhutan dearly, there things were cheap and people housed and fed me for free.  Even the poorest of farmers refused to take my money.  I felt that I didn’t have to question the authenticity of these interactions and rather that people were helping me out of the goodness of their hearts.  So far, I cannot say the same about Bolivia.  I hope it changes once I get out of La Paz and into the countryside.  Moreover, my homestay mom has been telling me various stories of how four people who lived with them at different times were all victims of the same scam: a fake tourist and fake police officer collude to rob them of all their belongings.  Needless to say, I am nervous about going out alone around the city.  I feel a bit trapped in the house and it’s almost reminiscent of my time in Tanzania where going out on the street alone was stressful.  The adjustment has been a rough one as well because of the language barrier.  It is strange and doesn’t make a lot of sense, but I almost feel more isolated here where I can understand some-most of what is said and respond in a somewhat limited capacity.  It is extremely exhausting trying to decipher the words of rapid speakers and reply in broken Spanish 24/7.  In contrast, in Tanzania, India, and Bhutan, I did not master Swahili, Hindi, or Dzongka respectively, so trying to listen and understand seemed fruitless and in some ways, I knew that I could tune it out.  And while I know I missed out on a significant amount of the dialogue in this countries, I knew I could always try to default back to English.  Simultaneously, however, it is exciting and empowering to be in a country where I can understand the street signs, hail a [radio] taxi, and bargain in the market with my limited language skills.  I can make more small talk with the family than in many of my homestay situations in other countries, which should also feel more unifying.  I guess only time will tell.

Despite the wonderful celebrations of Diwali in India and National Day in Bhutan, for Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s, this has been the most lonely holiday season I’ve ever experienced.  Spending them in a low quality Indian hotel, navigating various airport connections, and a partying in a famous backpackers’ hostel in the massive and aloof city of La Paz respectively has made me miss my family and friends more than I could have imagined.  Although I was surrounded by people on all occasions, they were not the people whom I love and value.  In a room full of people, I felt inexplicably lonely and isolated.  Thus, in terms of resolutions for 2014, I am really starting to understand what makes me happy.  I now know more than ever that I enjoy spending time with loved ones and people who have similar values, interests, and aspirations in life.  In contrast, I have spent some time with backpackers, albeit limited, and I realize how much I don’t see eye to eye with them.  I am not bouncing around various party hostels getting drunk every night with other foreigners or taking organized buses to the most popular tourist hotspots.  In contrast, I enjoy and want to spend time with families and immerse myself in the nuances of the local culture, preferably in rural settings.  Thus my resolutions include wanting to dig even more deeply into my project and the various cultures if that’s possible.  I want to spend less time on social media and more time in real conversation.  I want to exercise regularly, eat better, sleep more and just generally take care of myself – my body and my mental wellbeing.  After all this exposure to Buddhism, I should know that happiness comes from within and is all about attitude.  Even though La Paz has felt like anything but home over the last four days and it’s been nothing but rain, I am hopeful that if I just try to apply a more positive mindset, then things will improve.

And to wrap up this post, I will share some inspirational and fun quotations from a list-serve email I recently received:

“Happy New Year! Time to make 2014 the stuff of legends

This is it. Your moment is here.

All it takes is a little inspiration and motivation to go after what you want. Try it this year. We’ll cheer you on every step of the way. In fact we’ll start right now:

 “The future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their dreams.” (Eleanor Roosevelt)

 “Wherever you go, go with all your heart.” (Confucius)

 “The question isn’t who is going to let me; it’s who is going to stop me.” (Ayn Rand)

 “The only person you are destined to become is the person you decide to be.” (Ralph Waldo Emerson)

 “In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different.” (Coco Chanel)

 “The more I think about it, the more I realize there is nothing more artistic than to love others.” (Vincent Van Gogh)

"Never give up, for that is just the place and time that the tide will turn." (Harriet Beecher Stowe)

 “Life is very interesting… in the end, some of your greatest pains, become your greatest strengths.” (Drew Barrymore)

 “Every great dream begins with a dreamer. Always remember, you have within you the strength, the patience, and the passion to reach for the stars to change the world. (Harriet Tubman)

Here’s one more quote to sweeten your day: “You’re only human. You live once and life is wonderful, so eat the damned red velvet cupcake.” (Emma Stone)”

Here are also some New Year’s resolutions related to sustainable food from Food Tank – The Food Think Tank, based in Chicago:

“As we enter 2014, there are still nearly one billion people suffering from hunger. Simultaneously, 65 percent of the world's population live in countries where obesity kills more people than those who are underweight. But these are problems that we can solve and there's a lot to be done in the new year!

2014 was declared the International Year of Family Farming (IYFF) by the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO). Food Tank is honored and excited to be collaborating with FAO around highlighting how farmers are more than just food producers--they're teachers, innovators, entrepreneurs, environmental stewards, and change-makers!

And negotiations are continuing around the new Sustainable Development Goals that will replace the Millennium Development Goals. It's our hope that the new goals will help not only reduce hunger and poverty, but find ways to improve nutrient density and improve farmers' livelihoods.

In addition, the issue of food loss and food waste is gaining ground thanks to the U.N.'s Zero Hunger Challenge, which calls for zero food waste, as well as the good work of many organizations including the Natural Resources Defense Council, Feeding the 5000, the U.N. Environment Programme, and WastedFood.com who are showing eaters, businesses, and policy-makers solutions for ending waste in the food system. 

And youth are taking the lead in pushing for a more sustainable food system. Young people like Edward Mukiibi, who is helping Slow Food International's 1,000 Garden in Africa's program gain momentum. In addition, the Young Professionals for Agriculture Research and Development (YPARD) is helping connect agronomists, farmers, researchers, and activists around the world. Food Tank will also be announcing some exciting work around mobilizing youth in 2014!

Through concrete action, hope and success in the food system is possible.

As Nelson Mandela said, “sometimes it falls upon a generation to be great.”

Together we can be that generation and find solutions to nourish both people and the planet!

Here are 14 food resolutions for 2014:

1. Meet Your Local Farmer

Know your farmer, know your food (KYF2) aims to strengthen local and regional food systems. Meeting your local farmer puts a face to where your food comes from and creates a connection between farmers and consumers.

2. Eat Seasonal Produce

By purchasing local foods that are in season, you can help reduce the environmental impact of shipping food. And your money goes straight to the farmer, supporting the local economy.

3. End Food Waste

More than 1.3 billion tons of edible food is wasted each year. Tips to reduce waste include planning meals ahead, buying ‘ugly’’ fruits and vegetables, being more creative with recipes, requesting smaller portions, composting, and donating excess food.

4. Promote a Healthy Lifestyle

Many diseases are preventable, including obesity, yet 1.5 billion people in the world are obese or overweight. Promote a culture of prevention by engaging in physical activity and following guidelines for a healthy diet. Gaps in food governance must also be addressed to encourage healthy lifestyles, including junk food marketing to children.

5. Commit to Resilience in Agriculture

A large portion of food production is used for animal feed and biofuels--at least one-third of global food production is used to feed livestock. And land grabs are resulting in food insecurity, the displacement of small farmers, conflict, environmental devastation, and water loss. Strengthening farmers' unions and cooperatives can help farmers be more resilient to food prices shocks, climate change, conflict, and other problems.

6. Eat (and Cook) Indigenous Crops

Mungbean, cow pea, spider plant...these indigenous crops might sound unfamiliar, but they are grown by small-holder farmers in countries all over the world. The U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) reports that approximately 75 percent of the Earth’s genetic resources are now extinct, and another third of plant biodiversity is predicted to disappear by the year 2050. We need to promote diversity in our fields and in our diets!

7. Buy (or Grow) Organic

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) has found that at least one pesticide is in 67 percent of produce samples in the U.S. Studies suggest that pesticides can interfere with brain development in children and can harm wildlife, including bees. Growing and eating organic and environmentally sustainable produce we can help protect our bodies and natural resources.

8. Go Meatless Once a Week

To produce 0.45 kilograms (one pound) of beef can require 6,810 liters (1,799 gallons) of water and 0.45 kilograms (one pound) of pork can require 2,180 liters (576 gallons) of water. Beef, pork, and other meats have large water footprints and are resource intensive. Consider reducing your "hoofprint" by decreasing the amount and types of meat you consume.

9. Cook

In Michael Pollan’s book “Cooked,” he learns how the four elements-fire, water, air, and earth-transform parts of nature into delicious meals. And he finds that the art of cooking connects both nature and culture. Eaters can take back control of the food system by cooking more and, in the process, strengthen relationships and eat more nutritious--and delicious--foods.

10. Host a Dinner Party

It’s doesn’t have to be fancy, just bring people together! Talk about food, enjoy a meal, and encourage discussion around creating a better food system. Traveling in 2014 and craving a homemade meal? For another option try Meal Sharing and eat with people from around the world.

11. Consider the ‘True Cost’ Of Your Food

Based on the price alone, inexpensive junk food often wins over local or organic foods. But, the price tag doesn’t tell the whole story. True cost accounting allows farmers, eaters, businesses, and policy makers to understand the cost of all of the "ingredients" that go into making fast food--including antibiotics, artificial fertilizers, transportation, and a whole range of other factors that don't show up in the price tag of the food we eat.

12. Democratize Innovation

Around the world, farmers, scientists, researchers, women, youth, NGOs, and others are currently creating innovative, on-the-ground solutions to various, interconnected global agriculture problems. Their work has the great potential to be significantly scaled up, broadened, and deepened—and we need to create an opportunity for these projects to get the attention, resources, research, and the investment they need.

13. Support Family Farmers

The U.N. FAO has declared 2014 the International Year of Family Farming, honoring the more than 400 million family farms in both industrialized and developing countries, defined as farms who rely primarily on family members for labour and management. Family farmers are key players in job creation and healthy economies, supplying jobs to millions and boosting local markets, while also protecting natural resources.

14. Share Knowledge Across Generations

Older people have challenges--and opportunities--in accessing healthy foods. They're sharing their knowledge with younger generations by teaching them about gardening and farming, food culture, and traditional cuisines. It’s also important to make sure that older people are getting the nutrition they need to stay active and healthy for as long as possible.

You can share this awesome list with friends and family by following this link: http://foodtank.org/news/2013/12/fourteen-food-resolutions-to-bring-in-the-new-year?utm_source=Food+Tank%3A+The+Food+Think+Tank&utm_campaign=aa0d51d624-14+Resolutions&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_c6d5c4b977-aa0d51d624-12452989

Sunset over Holland from Alitalia airlines

Welcome to Juliaca, Peru!

"Your smile decorates my day"

First views of Lake Titicaca

At the border between Peru and Bolivia in the town of Desaguadero

Welcome to Peru...except we were going towards Bolivia ;)

Woke up to the breathtaking views of La Paz from my hotel window

"I wish that everyone smiles and is happy"

One of the many incredible murals sprinkled throughout La Paz

My homestay brother with alpacas in the city

My visit to "Moon Valley"

With my homestay brother Jose

Spirit of the Andes

Jose and I :)

Care for your planet

Cholitas and angry birds...

"La Paz: the force of the revolution, example of transformation"