September 20, 2013
The International Society for Ecology and Culture (ISEC) Volunteer Coordinator, Richard, is also working on
updating the film Ancient Futures by re-interviewing
individuals who appeared in the original film 20 years ago. I’ve been able to accompany him on few of
these interviews, which has been extremely interesting in terms of learning
more about perspectives on development and globalization. I will share with you one interview, which
was extremely poignant. It was with
Sonam Anchuk, founder and director of SECMOL (Student Ecological and Cultural
Movement of Ladakh) and an incredibly intelligent and eloquent individual. He first heard about Helena Norberg-Hodge in
the late 1980s when he was schooling in mechanical engineering and his peers
were interning with LEDeG. As an
engineer, he first became interested in technical gains and machines such as
ram pumps and passive solar technologies and only later was influenced by the cultural
and social ramifications of Helena’s work.
But he acknowledged that he holds a different view of how Ladakh has
passed through history, one that directly goes against Helena’s views (Helena
argues that tourism was the cultural downfall of Ladakh). According to Anchuk, Ladakh lost its independence
to Jammu and then to India, but these very large events had little impact on
the local village level. Instead the
opening of the road in the early 1960s had the biggest influence, as it brought
goods, officers, schools, teachers, etc., who all held the view that
traditional is primitive and modern is what we should strive for. He phrased it that “people had a huge
colonial hang over” and thought that anything that resembled their master (England)
was modern and good to strive for, which rendered Ladakhis backwards, poor, and
uncivilized. What was perhaps most
damaging, however, is the fact that this new view of development came without
any questioning and these ideas came indirectly/third hand to boot (from
England to Delhi and Delhi to Srinagar and Srinagar to Leh). This led to “Ladakh taking a nose dive in
self-esteem and cultural strength” – people didn’t want to speak the language,
wear the clothes, eat the food etc. and they felt proud of anything that made
them look not Ladakhi. “The early 1960s
to mid 1970s was a dark era,” Anchuk noted.
But shortly thereafter, another huge change took place, a “happy change”
in his opinion: in 1974, Ladakh was opened to the entire world (not just India
as it had been in the 1960s). This time,
Ladakhis could meet the “masters” [of development] themselves, which “short-circuited
the distance” and now Ladakhis could see that not everything was right. With the arrival of westerners, they saw that
farming was becoming disastrous (e.g. green revolution), that mechanization and
modern lifestyles were breaking down families, stressing people out, and polluting
cities. Tourists brought first-hand
stories of the negatives of development in the West, which was positive because
it questioned the previous model that was so celebrated and told them “not
everything modern is gold.” And more
importantly, tourists brought the idea that Ladakhi culture should be valued,
which was a huge relief after a decade of shame (Ladakhis were told that their
farming system was a miracle – growing something in such difficult conditions,
irrigation and water sharing system as a social miracle etc.). “This opening to tourism was a saving grace
for Ladakh” as otherwise, “we would have continued downwards on a one lane road
to hating and changing ourselves – becoming another village with no identity
and just part of the mass.” And he had
quite thoughtful opinions on localization: “It will happen one way or another
but it’s a matter if we actively choose it or if we wait until fossil fuels run
out and we have no choice but to localize production.” He made the analogy between a beggar and a
monk. While superficially, the monk and
beggar may seem similar in their behavior, in reality, they are very different:
one is begging out of helplessness and the other begging for a cause, a deep
philosophy, which is highly respectable because the monk has chosen to beg to
extricate himself of a worldly life.
According to Anchuk, it would be better if we respectfully choose to
localize (e.g. food production) now and save the good things for the future
rather than condemn ourselves after we exhaust all energy sources like coal and
oil. And lastly, his thoughts on
agriculture resonated the most with me.
He explained how today, it is a positive thing that the government is
supporting organic, which is in stark contrast to previous decades. For instance, during the Green Revolution in the
1960s to late 1990s, there was a massive government push for chemical
pesticides and synthetic fertilizers (side note: all govt. provided, very
different from Tanzania) – “the government passed out and subsidized these
‘glittering chemicals’” and farmers were curious and eager to try them. Today, however, most people have realized
this isn’t good, which is an immensely positive trend for farming. And what’s more interesting is that
agricultural extension officers are now proponents of organic but they no
longer have an audience. According to
Anchuk, “agriculture [in Ladakh] is dying” because young people are leaving the
villages to flee to the cities for a white-collar life. This shit leaves agriculture in the hands of
older generations, which continue their livelihoods purely out of “social and
cultural inertia to maintain the green fields” (there is a stigma attached to
barren fields), “but this isn’t enough to keep farming going.” Today, paid migrant labor is imported from
Nepal and Bihar, which is not how agriculture is going to survive, and “if
nothing changes in the next 10-20 years, then there will be a critical
mass/shift away from farming, a cascading/domino effect of people in villages
giving up farming.” This is largely
because it doesn’t make any economic sense to continue cultivating the land:
farmers invest and lose money in agriculture, whereas they make money from
tourism and the army and then put this money into labor and farming – it’s not a
sustainable model. And with the public
distribution system, it also doesn’t make economic sense because people can get
cheap food. According to Anchuk,
“mechanization is wonderful because it relieves people of drudgery and animals
of cruelty,” but the situation demands “the right kind of mechanization.” He said that people are happy about tractors,
mechanized threshing, plowing etc. because it saves time, but this kind of
technology is so overly dependent on oil that it is not sustainable. “If there is a border conflict, land slide or
natural catastrophe, or economic problems, and if you move totally to oil-based
technologies, everything will collapse” (especially if you’ve given up animals
in favor of tractors). In this way, he
believes that mechanization needs to be sustainable and make us independent
more than dependent. He uses solar power
as an example, which is becoming more affordable, and could theoretically power
the same farm implements currently being powered by diesel. They may not be as a fast or as good, but
they are much more sustainable in the long term. And farmers here should make use of “simple
machines – wheels and inclined planes. We
haven’t gone to wheels, we’ve gone directly to oil-based engines,” which I
found extremely interesting. And now
that I think about it, I didn’t see a single wheel barrel in the village of
Likir (just those horrendously uncomfortable backpacks). Anchuk said, “We need more innovation for
simple technologies” and used hydro-power as another example: “Ladakh now has
surplus energy because of environmentally friendly dams” and could use this
electricity to mechanize farming. So he
is clearly not in favor of diesel tractor-style mechanization as they “make
things easy for the moment but could be the last strike that completely makes
things collapse.” He finished by
explaining how one of the largest threats to the future of farming in Ladakh is
actually parents who are discouraging children from staying on the farm. As a director of a school, he has seen people
in the younger generation who have been educated and do want to come back to
the land, “but development agencies and experts did their jobs so well that
previous generations were made to hate farming, soil, and dirt.” So brainwashed parents are now blocking the
future of farming – who’d have thought?
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