Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Farewell Tanzania: Final Reflections

August 20, 2013 – Farewell Tanzania at the Julius Nyere International Airport


I don’t think I can bring myself to begin reading about Indian culture, history, and agriculture until I properly digest my time in Tanzania.  The problem is that who knows if and when said digestion is going to be complete.  When I try to reflect on all that I’ve seen and learned here, I become overwhelmed – my body, mind, and senses seem to shut down.  And airports seem to be the worst place to self-reflect.  They’re loud, dirty, chaotic, and have many distractions, especially if you’re like me: waiting to check in because I showed up four hours before my departure.  I think that India is a time for new beginnings.  A fresh Watson start if such a thing is possible.  A new continent and a new culture – it seems fitting.  I hope this can be a time of healing and continued self-discovery.  I want to take better care of myself – eat when I’m hungry and most importantly, know when is enough/sufficient.  In Tanzania, I had a habit of gorging because meals were space so far apart.  I want to eat better, be more active, and have more mental clarity.  Perhaps India will help me achieve these goals.  My friend Katie who studied abroad here a few years ago told me that the vegetarian food in India is some of the best I’ll ever have.  I want to go on hikes and do yoga.  I want to farm.  I was able to get my hands dirty a little bit in Tanzania – harvesting potatoes in the Usambara Mountains and helping the boys at the Watoto Foundation weed –but much of my research here involved going to NGOs and research institutions for which I sat at a desk asking questions.  I want to be an active participant, not a passive observer.  I think both roles have advantages and disadvantages, but I long to experience the former, though I also recognize the importance of being comfortable with just “being” instead of always “doing.”  As I’ve said in many previous entries, it’s tough to balance my time.  I want to read relevant literature, listen to pertinent podcasts, meet farmers, talk to agricultural researchers, and explore NGO efforts.  Just today, I listened to an hour long podcast about permaculture/natural farming, which examined notions of efficiency, yield, sustainability etc.  I wanted to side with the man who was asking the questions because his were the same as mine: can we feed the world’s growing population with permaculture design principles and multi-layered food forests?  Can the yield compete with conventional or large-scale organic?  He seemed to think so.  For instance, he posed the scenario – imagine you take a 2,000 acre piece of land being farmed by one conventional farmer and then replace him with 500 individual farms, each cultivating two acres using permaculture.  He argued that the latter would most definitely be more productive and high yielding.  His rationale was that small-scale diverse systems, strategically deisgned for layers etc. can be incredibly high yielding.  The woman did not seem to think so.  She’s had experience farming conventionally, as well as large-scale organic (2000 acres with a 5000 member CSA) and most recently veganic permaculture (without animals or animal inputs).  She argued that farmers that use off-farm inputs (whether organic manure from another farm or synthetic fertilizer and pesticides) will always be more productive/high yielding/efficient because there is simply more land area going towards production, rather than a farm that uses part of its land to raise animals for manure or for cover crops or perennial woody plants for shade, all of which doesn’t’ result in food products/yield.  The problem may be that permaculture or diversified farming is viewed as chaotic (e.g. scattering seeds freely and randomly to mimic nature) and definitely more difficult to maintain on a large scale, compared to monocropping, ordering into rows etc.  The podcast also raised the questions of economic versus biological efficiency, the latter I still don’t really understand.  She also disagreed with him that population can continue to grow and that permaculture can support it.  She claimed that in contrast, if we want truly sustainable systems that are self-regulating, we simply need a smaller population. I agree with her on this one and think that his opinion on the possibility of limitless growth is naïve and ill-informed.  She is also no longer interested in competitiveness, yield, etc. and wants to create equitable and environmentally responsible food systems.  I agree with her that may be we are barking up the wrong tree, asking the wrong questions – that it shouldn’t be a matter of yield at all but rather a question of holistic healing.  That we cannot possibly fix the broken food system using the same flawed metrics and language, that looking to market-based and capitalist driven solutions may not be the answer since these systems bred the current catastrophes.  Perhaps we need a new language/vocabulary and total worldview shift.  One article I read suggested the seemingly radical and farfetched idea of taking food out of the world market, effectively decommodifying it.  Something else the woman in the podcast said that resonated strongly with me with avoid being the armchair type that preaches sustainable food systems but hasn’t even gotten dirt under their fingernails.  I fear being that person.  I want to get my hands dirty and understand farmer struggles and how they might be using technology to overcome them.  It seems, however, that some of the most important practices for long term sustainability (environmental and economic) is to conserve the soil and ensure that its water content and nutrients don’t disappear.  This is where low/no till conservation agriculture comes in, however, without the heavy spraying of round-up.  Cover crops and mulching can help to some degree but at what scale can they be used?  Scale always seems to be an issue.

While in Tanzania, I feel like I was able to see the spectrum, though not as equally as I would have liked – with many more visits to small farms (1-2 acres that can’t afford a hand pump) and a few community garden projects, but not nearly as many commercial and large-scale operations as I would have liked.  But perhaps that is reflective of farming here – many, many more small farmers using hand tools and maybe animal power or other appropriate technologies if they’re lucky.  However, large-scale operations do exist.  I saw this with Hortanzania, Quality Food Products, and Mick Dennis.  However, they are much much capital intensive, requiring loans or other financing schemes at the outset.  On the high end of the technological gamut, I saw pivot sprinklers at Hortanzania (straight from the American Midwest/Plains), the BioAGtive Emissions System (“the most cutting edge in the industry”) and QFP’s usage of high tech no till seeders and glyphosate.  These are definitely not the norm though and it is interesting to compare the models of a foreign-owned company coming in and farming large tracts of land (With the help of machines and local labor) versus a foreigner coming in and integrating their technology and business models with local farmers.  In the latter, it seems like the advanced technologies are received with mixed responses: that in some cases, farmers are too obstinate to change the crops they grow, let alone embrace a foreign and advanced technology.  On the other hand, some farmers may be so impoverished and desperate that they will jump on any opportunity to help themselves.

All in all, I was able to visit 25 individuals/organizations/groups/NGOs/companies/research institutions while in Tanzania: 9 NGOs, 3 farmer groups/community gardening projects; 3 cooperatives (with some overlap with the farmer groups), 4 research institutions, 4 large-scale/commercial/plantation-style operations; 1 individual doing post harvest processing and consulting; and the agricultural trade show (Nane Nane).  Each person I spoke with naturally had different opinions and approaches to farming.  There were some unexpected pieces of information learned along the way, including a strategic planning training given by TAN-EDAPS, an introduction to the benefits of low-till conservation agriculture, and learning about one of the most cutting edge technologies in the industry.  I felt like I came away from Tanzania better understanding the plight of small impoverished farmers, though I didn’t experience them first hand.  I could ask and listen attentively to their problems and perceived solutions, but could not live them.  I felt like I learned more about the power of cooperatives in farming: that they can help individual farms by pooling resources and using collective bargaining power to achieve many of their goals (e.g. access to credit, sharing a tractor, or building an irrigation scheme together).  I found myself startled by the apparent lack of education in the farming population.  Obviously, I’ve always known that slash and burn agriculture exists, but seeing the burning and charred fields firsthand made it much more real.  And then I Question the Slow Food emphasis on traditional wisdom: where is it?  If these farmers are following in the paths of their parents and grandparents, there must have been some knowledge transmitted but I’m not sure where it’s gone.  Some farmers, agricultural extension officers, and government officials acted like life didn’t exist before chemical inputs, as if this is how it’s always been.  This seems absurd, but if we’re talking about low life expectancy, then maybe they really can’t recall another way.  Moreover, it definitely seems like farmers here are receiving conflicting information: e.g. that chemical inputs are an absolute necessity or that tilling is paramount or that high quality seeds are the be all, end all (which I’ve heard that its more about good timing and maintaining healthy soil that actual seed).  I come away with the understanding that we still need to take great measures to reduce food waste.  I hadn’t really considered post-harvest processing technologies when I first conceived of my project, but it’s actually come up so often in Tanzania that it seems foolish that it didn’t make it on my radar initially.  I understand more how much the availability of funding affects the capacity of NGOs and how the equality of their work and capabilities vary significantly (e.g. comparing AVRDC with WODSTA).  Being taken around in a company car and flying with a research scientist across the country to follow up on a project versus being asked to help bring volunteers to Tanzania or help them identify donors.  The stark contrast was a bit startling.  I was also surprised by how little support agriculture seems to receive when it makes up such an enormous portion of the  GDP and employment.  Despite Kilimo Kwanza (the national agriculture policy of “farming first”), it seems like the government is all talk (i.e. outdated research stations and poor farmers with unfair subsidy systems).  I also wonder and ask who should be “teaching” or “helping” who (e.g. Australian permaculture training, Dutch-owned Tanga Fresh dairy cooperative, QFP and Mick Dennis versus Tanzanian-led Sustainable Agriculture Tanzania and TAN-EDAPS).  It seems like in some cases, foreigners can come in and train Africans, who then train each other but the issue of long term financial stability of donor dependent NGOs is crucial.  The Watoto Foundation is a unique example because through Kiboko Lodge, it aims to become economically self-sufficient.  And through value added products, groups can generate additional income for themselves.  IT seemed like the most damaging and least positively contributing operation was a foreign owned one like Hortanzia that doesn’t disseminate knowledge or technology to farmers but rather uses local labor to mass produce crops for export.  But of course, I am biased.  Is food self-sufficiency and localization the answer?  Are these models sustainable?  And are cutting edge technologies appropriate?  They aren’t locally produced, are usually expensive, require technical knowhow, and may be large-scale. The idea of appropriate technology versus modern is hugely important.  The issue of climate change further exacerbates the problem and may render traditional farming techniques obsolete and new technologies the only way forward (though I’m not convinced).  My gut tells me it’s probably a marrying of the two.  Gender also complicates my research – how many and women are participating in farming activities (usually women are subsistence and men are commercial).

In sum, I don’t know if I had any burning questions answered while I was in Tanzania, but rather, my brain has become further saturated and muddled with uncertainty.  If anything, I think I saw (or tried to see) a good variety of worldviews and each person I meet challenges me to think more. I saw both the dire reality and also what is possible given a location and resources.  I also hope to skim the surface less and delve more deeply in the future.  Tanzania felt like a whirlwind, though a good introduction to farming issues as a whole (seeds, water, synthetic inputs versus organic, subsistence versus commercial etc.) and how I want to explore more in depth.  Bring it on India – I’m ready for you!        

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